One day, in the summer of 2023, a beautiful white package arrived at one of our cafés. It simply read: OCAFI. What was inside? Coffee samples, of course!
OCAFI is an interesting business model. It's neither a coffee producer, a processor, an importer, nor a coffee trader: OCAFI is all in one. OCAFI covers the entire supply chain from plantation to marketing in Brazil, the US, and Europe, operates its own offices in Sao Paulo, New York, and Berlin, and is therefore also available locally.
In the coffee world, Brazil is synonymous for agricultural mass production for many, and in the cup profile, it stands for one thing above all: unfussy, chocolatey, low in acidity. On our trip, we visited the founders, Luis and Niklas, and their agricultural engineer, Fante, at Fazenda Pinheiro (São José do Rio Pardo, Mogiana Region, Sao Paulo State). Both are around 30 years old and want to further develop coffee in Brazil.
"Chocolate Hazelnut" is always a fine cup profile, but both are convinced that the profile and cultivation methods must evolve. And they are doing this in many ways: In addition to the classic profile, they have other varieties from higher and cooler growing areas. These varieties produce more complex aromas that one is not usually used to in Brazil. In addition, they have clean, nutty Robusta from the Conillon variety.
Particularly interesting is the range of measures they have taken in response to climate change: rainwater cisterns, underground drip irrigation, approaches to shade tree management, and the creation of biodiversity strips and zones. When we arrived in early June, the harvest was already in full swing. The "post-harvest process," or the phase after the harvest, runs like clockwork. Since here – as in other large parts of Brazil – the harvest is carried out mechanically, the sorting and drying process is crucial. Before the cherries are harvested by the harvesting machine, a measuring device is used to determine how easily the ripe cherries detach from the stems. The strength and frequency of the harvesting "grabbers" on the machine are used to adjust the strength and frequency of the harvesting "grabbers." The harvesting process then resembles a moving car wash, through whose center the coffee bushes are pulled. Once the cherries are harvested, things have to move quickly to get the beans into a dry, storable form. Above all, spoilage processes must be prevented and the quality of the bean must be preserved.
Two methods predominate in Brazil: natural and pulped-natural. In most cases, both methods are used simultaneously. The reason for this is that the coffee cherries ripen at different rates on the vines. Since space on the drying areas is limited, harvesting must begin at a certain point, even though many unripe cherries are still hanging on the vines. Despite the precise harvesting method, many different ripeness levels arrive at the processing stations. Here, the whole cherries are cleaned in a water jet system, and the naturals, i.e., the very ripe, slightly dried cherries, are separated from the rest. They are then pre-dried for a few days on suitable concrete surfaces before being adjusted to the target moisture content of 11.5% using special drum dryers. The speed of drying is crucial here: If the beans are dried too quickly, the cell structure is destroyed, and the cellular organism dies – such coffee beans age very quickly and lose their characteristics and quality in the cup. If the beans are dried too slowly, microorganisms can generate so-called off-flavors. The responsibility for a drying system is therefore very great. The different post-harvest methods also result in different characteristics in the cup: Naturals tend to produce more full-bodied and sweet cups, while Pulped Naturals, in comparison, have somewhat slimmer cup profiles with greater cleanliness/clarity. Anyone who has had the opportunity to witness this machinery, the hands, the sweat, and the minds behind it, can appreciate the beauty of clean and full-bodied coffee extracts in the cup.