Rwanda, the land of a thousand hills

Visit to our coffee producers in May 2024

Ruanda, das Land der tausend Hügel

Rwanda has approximately 13 million inhabitants living in an area of ​​27,000 square kilometers. This is about one-third the size of Austria, with a third more people. The average age is 19.2 years – compared to 43.2 years in Austria (2022).

It's one of the most beautiful coffee-growing regions in Africa that we've ever visited. The coffee isn't grown as a monoculture, it's not plantation coffee, but rather amidst many local (useful) plants, such as bananas, avocados, millet, and much more – just as it was originally intended. We received a very warm welcome.

Our first stop: Kigali, the capital city, at an altitude of 1,500 meters. Vibrant, young, congested with traffic, clean.

What did we observe? Beautiful, warm, graceful people. Many shades of personality: businesspeople through and through alongside young unemployed people, some with jobs and some without. Poverty and material simplicity alongside ostentatious displays of wealth. Emotional richness with plenty of freedom, laughter, and lightheartedness alongside perceived limitations regarding education, living standards, and medical care.

A shocking story: the 1994 genocide. By mid-July 1994, according to various sources, between 800,000 and 1,000,000 people had been murdered. Approximately 75 percent of the Tutsi population of Rwanda fell victim to the genocide, as did about a third of the Twa population. Moderate Hutus who refused to participate or actively opposed the violence were also killed.

Our connection to Rwanda developed through Immaculae Steinlechner. She is a Rwandan/Tutsi woman who was adopted as a child in Tyrol after the genocide. Her entire family perished in the genocide. For the past few years, Imma has dedicated herself entirely to coffee from her homeland, thus building an important bridge between Austria/Europe and Rwanda.

Our second stop: Lake Kivu is the center of our journey and the origin of our coffee.

Lake Kivu forms the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, a country in constant tension with Rwanda. The lake covers 2,400 km² and is 480 m deep. 58% of the lake belongs to the Democratic Republic of Congo, while 42% lies on the Rwandan side. Lake Kivu is a crater lake and one of the largest lakes in Africa, with 250 islands, 56 of which are located on the Rwandan side. Our coffee region is situated on one of these islands. We can only reach the cooperatives/washing stations by boat. While this is very idyllic for us, it presents a challenge for the delivery and transport of the coffee. Although there is access by land, it is very complicated. Our Rwandan coffee so far has come from the COOCAMU washing station/cooperative. Josias Harerimana He manages this farm, along with two others, on Lake Kivu. He is a local resident and enjoys the trust of many coffee farmers in the area. During our visit, we had a lively exchange with him and his team and learned about the region's unique characteristics.

Our current Rwandan coffee is a fully washed Arabica of the Bourbon variety. This variety is predominant in Rwanda – comparable to the Grüner Veltliner in Austria. We're using this trip, among other things, to find an appealing Arabica using the natural processing method. The special processing steps are carried out at Josias' second washing station, called BWIZHASA. This includes processing the natural coffees – which, simply put, means drying the entire coffee cherry. However, this process involves a great deal of expertise regarding the correct harvest time, selection and hygiene, proper drying, storage, hulling, and much more. The activity at the washing station is vibrant and bustling. BWIZHASA was only recently built. The new equipment, cleanliness, and excellent organization are immediately noticeable. The young agricultural engineer Samuel manages the entire coffee processing operation on-site. Many young people are doing excellent work. The result is a fine coffee quality in the cup.

Our discussions with Josias and his team yielded many valuable insights. Certain conditions are crucial for high-quality coffee: direct delivery immediately after picking the ideally ripe cherries, and immediate processing. Farmers cultivating their coffee trees in the immediate vicinity of the washing station can meet these criteria. Furthermore, knowing the origin of the cherries ensures traceability. However, if a longer period (half a day or more) passes between harvesting and delivery or processing, off-flavors develop due to the cherries sitting in the heat for an extended time (similar to overripe fruit beginning to ferment). This occurs when farmers from more distant areas bring their cherries to the washing station by boat as a consolidated shipment. At the cooperative, we conducted a blind tasting comparing coffees made from immediately processed cherries with those that were not. The results clearly favored the freshly processed and traceable coffee. This one is very clean, much sweeter, and overall shows noticeably finer aromas.

For next year, we've been offered the opportunity to be present during the coffee harvest. We will pre-finance our required coffee quantity. This provides the cooperative with planning security and allows us to influence the quality. Further projects for successful collaboration are planned. This should lead to a win-win situation.

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"Rwanda: The Land of 1000 Hills"

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SELEKTION 186 C

SELEKTION 186 C

Das Lesen spannender Geschichten lässt sagenhafte Abenteuer im Kopf entstehen. Ähnlich, nur in einer anderen Dimension verhält es sich mit Aromen, diesen kleinen gasförmigen Molekülen - sie stoßen das Tor zur Welt auf. Kaffeebohnen haben einen reichen Schatz an Aromen, der sich nicht nur quantitativ (0,1% Trockenmasseanteil!), sondern auch qualitativ durch ihre Vielfalt bemerkbar macht. Diesen sagenhaften Reichtum wollen wir mit unserer neuen Selektion 186C unterstreichen. Der angestammten Heimstatt der Kaffeebohne – der knallroten Kirsche – wird die Bühne freigemacht. Aromen von Zitrus, Heidelbeere und roten Früchten gepaart mit den erfrischenden Säuren der kühleren Höhenlagen lassen den Hauch eines sensorischen Abenteuers in den Sinnen erahnen. Eine Tasse Kaffee kann damit das Tor zur Welt aufstoßen. Es sind keine klaren Gedankengänge, sondern der Strom von Emotionen als die Sprösslinge der Sinne, welcher durch das Abenteuer leitet. Die Selektion ist eine bewusste Auswahl aus drei Arabica Varietäten aus drei Regionen: El Salvador, Nicaragua und Brasilien. Alle verwendeten Varietäten wachsen für ihre Verhältnisse relativ hoch. Das heißt in diesen kühleren Lagen werden die Säuren ausgeprägter, als in den niedrigeren, wärmeren. Diese Anbauhöhen bringen somit eine Frische und Lebendigkeit in die Tasse. Ein komplexes Muster aus Säuren wirkt wie der Wind in unserem Gesicht und trägt den Heißluftballon unseres Gemütes in Höhen, welche unsere Perspektiven neu ordnen. Die literarische Figur des Luftschiffers Gianozzo im Roman von Jean Paul erkennt, dass indem er immer mehr Ballast abwirft, der Wind unkontrollierbar wird und der Ballon zu hoch aufsteigt. Der notwendige Ballast in unserer Kaffeetasse ist der Körper. Körper wird als physikalische Sensation wahrgenommen und resultiert entweder aus dem Fühlen der Fettkügelchen oder von größeren Molekülen mit einer großen Hydrathülle drum herum. Diese Phänomene werden im Mundraum allgemein als Vollmundigkeit oder Körper bezeichnet. Das Gegenteil wäre das wässrige/verdünnte Empfinden eines dünnen Extraktes. Dieser Körper eben lässt die Säuren auf eine Höhe steigen, welche wir als belebend aber dennoch balanciert empfinden. Auf diesen zwei Säulen haben wir versucht neben der Vielfalt der Aromen dieser Kaffeevarietäten die Selektion 186 C zu erbauen. Wir lassen den Ballon nun steigen und werden während der Fahrt laufend Verbesserungen durchführen, damit Körper und Säure in Einklang sind. Die Selektion 186 C eignet sich für all jene, welche auf der Suche nach einem belebenden und fruchtigen Espresso sind oder all jene welche den Kaffee als Lungo bzw. Americano am liebsten trinken und die Säure-Komplexität des Tassenprofils auch in Abstufungen durch leichte Verdünnung schätzen.
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The Rwanda Story - Part 2

Since 2021, we have been sourcing Arabica coffee beans of the Bourbon variety from Lake Kivu in Rwanda. It all started with a phone call from Immaculee Steinlechner.
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Our job is the SELECTION

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THE PRICE IS HOT

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TOI's ARE US: Unser diesjähriger Weihnachtskaffee - Ein Fine Robusta aus Vietnam

TOI'S ARE US: Our Christmas coffee this year - A Fine Robusta from Vietnam

Toi Nguyen is this year's producer of our Christmas coffee: a peaberry Robusta! (C. canphora var. Robusta 138 washed Peaberry). His farm is located in Bao Loc, Vietnam. – Vietnam? Yes, exactly! The country we previously associated with cheap, low-quality green coffee for inexpensive espresso blends. But as always, when you've settled comfortably into your preconceived notions, things turn out differently. This summer, several samples of Robusta green coffee from Mr. Toi's Future Coffee Farm arrived at our doorstep. Since discovering the Robusta variety from Finca Santa Isabel in Guatemala, we know that the time for high-quality Robustas ("Fine Robusta") has arrived. But the fact that this year's samples were from Vietnam made us a bit skeptical. After tasting them, however, our skepticism proved completely unfounded – this will be a wonderful brew for Christmas! Mr. Toi is a passionate Robusta specialist and does this coffee species proud. He confirms what has been circulating in expert circles for some years: Robusta beans do not necessarily have inferior sensory quality. However, the C. canephora species (botanical name) was only cultivated in the mid-19th century, while varieties of the C. arabica species were cultivated several hundred years earlier. C. canephora is the genetically older of the two and is also a parent of the C. arabica species. Due to its later discovery and the strong focus on disease resistance and plant yield, quality was secondary from the beginning. This is also why the erroneous quality label "100% Arabica" arose. It provides about as much information as "100% white wine." Robusta beans have a different shape, density, and chemical composition. Robusta beans have traditionally been treated with Arabica methods in agriculture, post-harvest processing, roasting, storage, and extraction. Additionally, Robusta has never fetched a high price, so production has been geared towards high volume. This vicious cycle has been broken in recent years. The careful and specific handling of this variety is revealing qualities we hadn't anticipated. As roasters, we've also had to learn a lot and question our own thinking. When preparing Robusta beans, they should be ground more finely than Arabica beans, likely due to their lower fat content. Another crucial finding is that 100% Robusta varieties tend to reach their sensory peak two months after roasting (unlike Arabica beans, which reach their peak three to five weeks after roasting). All of this needs to be considered, and much more is yet to come. The sooner we rethink our approach, the easier it will be to continue enjoying coffee in the future. In Peru, they are now selectively replacing Arabica plants destroyed by extreme weather with Robusta plants. The pressure on coffee cultivation from climate change is immense; now it's time to make a virtue of necessity and tackle the solutions. Mr. Toi – thank you for the pioneering work, these wonderful pearl beans and Merry Christmas! MR. TOI'S PEARL BEANS ROBUSTA IS ESPECIALLY SUITABLE FOR PORTAFILTERS, MOKACOPERS AND FULLY AUTOMATIC MACHINERY. AVAILABLE FROM 17.11.   Original article "TOI's ARE US: Our Christmas coffee this year - A Fine Robusta from Vietnam"
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220GRAD Chiemseegasse: A chapter comes to an end.

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Wer, Wie, Was...?

Who, how, what...?

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Mit Salzburg in Beziehung

In relationship with Salzburg

"Everything is connected to me and Salzburg. But it can only be a love-hate relationship because I am a living, breathing human being. It's not possible any other way. Or I let myself be absorbed, dance along with it, and completely give myself up – building Salzburg out of papier-mâché and icing, and giving myself up. I don't want that." (Thomas Bernhard)  
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Fest, Flüssig, Flüchtig. Die Welt des Kaffees im Fluss.

Solid, liquid, ephemeral. The world of coffee in flux.

Climate change is omnipresent. Never before have events directly attributable to it occurred so rapidly and so quickly. The coffee industry is also affected. In addition to increasingly frequent and severe storms and severe weather events, other weather phenomena play a crucial role for coffee farmers. Drought is becoming an increasingly serious problem in coffee-growing regions around the equator. Regions with sufficient altitude can still shift to higher elevations (around 2200 m!), as is the case in Ethiopia, for example. For Brazil, with its topographically determined low growing altitudes averaging 1000-1300 m for C. arabica varieties, this is hardly possible. This year, a crop failure of 28.5% is expected. This phenomenon is not new, but this development should not be taken lightly. A 2015 study (Bunn et al., 2015. Climate Change 129, 89-101) estimated that Brazil's current harvest volume will decrease by 30 to 85% by 2050. This is an enormous figure considering that Brazil is the world's largest coffee exporter by volume. The Arabica plant, as we know it, is threatened. Some growing regions and varieties will likely disappear. It pains us to think how quickly ways of life and the cultures, knowledge, and history associated with them could be lost forever. At the same time, coffee cultivation in China is increasing, and much hope is being placed in the C. canephora genus (Robusta). Robusta plants are known for their greater resistance to heat, temperature fluctuations, and pests. But only time will tell how this genus reacts to increasing drought stress. So, things are sure to change – for us and for the results in the cup. Who knows, perhaps new varieties, cultivation methods, roasting techniques, or even preparation methods will emerge that we can't even imagine right now.Pantha rhei! – Everything flows! I FIND THE GREAT THING IN THIS WORLDIS, NOT SO MUCH WHERE WE STAND, ASIN WHAT DIRECTION WE ARE MOVING.
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Sugar in your coffee? Hinzufügen ist verpönt aber welche Zucker bringt der Kaffee schon mit?

Sugar in your coffee? Adding it is frowned upon, but what sugar does coffee already contain?

In western Austria, mountains are generally only recognized as such above the tree line. This phenomenon is unknown around the equator and therefore also within the coffee belt. Here, it's quite possible to find coffee plantations at altitudes of 2200 meters. The term "highland coffee" for C. arabica varieties is indeed fitting. The C. canephora genus, widely known as Robusta, is traditionally found at lower elevations, up to 800 meters. However, even this is no longer a universal rule; this genus has been "migrating" to higher altitudes in recent years. C. canephora plants can now be found at elevations as high as 1500 meters. Does all this have an impact? – Quite a few! – One example can be quickly explained. An Ethiopian-Belgian team of scientists (Worku et al., 2018) described several aspects in a very readable publication. In summary: the sucrose (sugar) content of the green bean correlates positively with the altitude at which it is grown. This means that if the same coffee variety is grown at different altitudes, higher sucrose (and also glucose) content can generally be expected from the coffee beans grown at higher elevations. This phenomenon is currently attributed primarily to a combination of cooler temperatures, a slower ripening process, and simultaneously more intense sunlight. Sucrose undergoes numerous transformations and breakdowns during roasting. Many desirable flavor compounds are produced in the Maillard reaction and through caramelization – processes in which sucrose or its constituent sugars, fructose and glucose, are involved. And believe it or not, various acids are formed in the bean from sucrose and other sugars during roasting: formic acid, acetic acid, and lactic acid, to name the most important. These reach their maximum concentration at a certain point during roasting and are subsequently partially broken down. Additionally, green coffee beans also contain significant amounts of citric and malic acid – like many seeds from other fruits. The natural "green" acidity increases further with altitude, especially when the coffee plants are shaded from direct sunlight by trees. This interesting blend of diverse aromas and acids contributes to the exceptionally complex and rich aroma and flavor profile of coffee extracts.
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Wie sich eine kleine Bohne in der Welt behauptet

How a small bean holds its own in the world

Coffee is a genus of plants in the Rubiaceae family. More than 100 species are known to date. The best-known of these are Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (commonly known as Robusta). These are also the two most important coffee genera on the world market. Looking at both coffee varieties at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the flavor of the cup. Caffeine remains essentially stable during roasting—its levels hardly change. Arabica beans typically contain around 1% caffeine, while Robusta beans contain around 2%. In its pure form, caffeine tastes bitter and contributes between 10% and 30% to the bitterness of the final cup. To date, 72 different chlorogenic acids have been identified in green coffee beans. Their main groups contribute significantly to the characteristics of roasted coffee during roasting: Arabica contains up to 10% and Robusta up to 14% chlorogenic acids. Roasting can transform chlorogenic acids into spicy to smoky aromas like guaiacol, as well as vanillin. Other breakdown products—especially in darker roasts—such as chlorogenic acid lactones or phenylindanes, often cause extreme bitterness for the coffee drinker. These processes are therefore more likely and frequent in Robusta varieties. Here, great care in cultivation and roasting is essential to ensure that the gustatory advantages of this variety outweigh its disadvantages. Besides their sensory effects, chlorogenic acids also make important physiological contributions – as antioxidants in the body. Coffee is considered one of the main food sources of chlorogenic acids. Caffeine and chlorogenic acids are so-called "defense metabolites" in coffee plants. Caffeine acts as a neurotoxin, primarily against herbivores. Chlorogenic acids have an antioxidant effect against stress reactions in the plant or serve as building blocks for lignin, which is essential for lignification. This means they help the plant defend itself against herbivores, infections, and inflammation. The more coffee varieties are forced to assert themselves in evolution, the more of these substances have been incorporated into the DNA blueprint. The name "Robusta" derives from this ability to withstand adverse conditions. Due to these properties, Robusta is gaining increasing importance in the context of climate change. New developments offer hope that its qualities will improve, and that in addition to its robust nature, we will also find a compelling taste surprise in our cups.
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Die Kirsche fällt nicht weit vom Stamm?

The cherry doesn't fall far from the tree?

While we can quite expertly distinguish between Grüner Veltliner and Muskateller, between Merlot and Zweigelt when it comes to wine, we are usually still quite naive when it comes to coffee. Just like wine, the world of coffee offers us a great wealth of different varieties. Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (commonly known as Robusta) are the two most important coffee species on the world market. The varieties derived from them exhibit specific regional characteristics depending on their origin, geographical location, terrain, and processing, similar to the different grape varieties in winemaking. C. arabica and C. canephora share a common history. A historical paradox: C. canephora is the older species and a "parent" of the Arabica genus, even though it was discovered later. C. canephora has been used by humans since the mid-19th century. The history of the use of Arabica plants, on the other hand, begins between 500 and 1000 AD.Ethiopia and Yemen are home to the oldest Arabica varieties. Ethiopia is the cradle of Arabica. Many local varieties arose naturally over millennia in the Ethiopian rainforests (Wolisho, Kudumé, Dega, Yawan, to name just a few). Over time, people selected from this diversity of plants based on specific characteristics to create new varieties (Dilla, Geisha, etc.). Further new varieties arose naturally through the expansion of Arabica cultivation to other regions. Yemen was the first country to which the Arabica coffee plant spread from Ethiopia. And Yemen is the source of three varieties that are the starting point for many of today's hybrids—naturally occurring or cultivated: Typica, Mocha, and Bourbon. These three very old varieties are less productive than newer hybrids. They are highly prized by coffee connoisseurs for their rich aromas, which is reflected in the price of these green coffees. New varieties – whether naturally mutated or bred by humans – also have a long history. For example, a mutation in the Bourbon plant was observed in 1935 – named Caturra. This plant became the basis for many breeding programs aimed at high yields. While a Typica plant yields no more than 500 kilograms per hectare, Caturra can produce up to 1,500 kilograms.Nature and humanity are constantly striving to produce new varieties. Quality and yield represent the extremes of this pursuit. For a long time, humans focused on yield. However, these varieties have never been able to compete with the three oldest varieties in terms of taste. Generally speaking, Arabica varieties have a higher acidity and more subtle aromas. Robusta varieties tend to be known for their tart, strong, smoky, and bitter-walnutty characteristics. The qualities of both are often combined in blends to create well-rounded, full-bodied flavor profiles. In plant breeding, there are also attempts to cross Arabica and Robusta varieties with the aim of combining the sensory attributes of Arabica with the resilience of Robusta. Looking at both types of coffee at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the taste of the coffee in the cup.
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Love is in the air. Coffee aromas are everywhere.

Love is in the air. Coffee aromas are everywhere.

Freshly roasted... and the clock is already ticking! Coffee is a perishable product. From the moment roasting is complete, the aging process of the coffee beans begins. Then the clock starts ticking. The beloved aromas in coffee largely develop during roasting from the building blocks of the green bean. The fact that we smell aromas from coffee means that these are volatile: they travel to our noses in gaseous form. Most of what we think we taste, we actually smell. These volatile aromas are therefore (unfortunately) only a temporary delight within the coffee beans. In addition to the aromas, carbon dioxide (CO2) is produced during the roasting process. This originates from reactions between carbohydrates and amino acids. Carbon dioxide is particularly valued for its foaming effect – in the crema formation of espresso. Carbon dioxide plays an equally important role in the storage of coffee beans. It acts as a protective gas within the coffee packaging, displacing atmospheric oxygen. 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This is due to their surface area: grinding coffee beans "cuts" them into many small particles. This increased surface area is essential for coffee extraction. Storing ground coffee, however, leads to accelerated aging: the small particles release aromas and CO2 into the surrounding air more quickly, and atmospheric oxygen finds numerous binding sites to act upon.All the processes described so far are accelerated by elevated ambient temperatures, while diffusion and oxidation processes are slowed down by cooler temperatures. If you happen to have too much coffee in storage, you can freeze it: thaw it in a closed container for at least 12 hours before use (to protect it from moisture). The key factors affecting the aging of coffee beans are oxygen, warmth/heat, and their own surface area (the finer the grind, the larger the surface area). The optimal window for using coffee beans is 1 to 4 weeks after roasting for darker roasts; lighter roasts can be stored for a few weeks longer if stored properly.One final tip: Carbon dioxide is heavier than the surrounding air. If you scoop coffee beans from the package instead of emptying it, a large portion of the carbon dioxide remains inside. Quality assurance can be this convenient and smart! Yemen was the first country to which the Arabica plant spread from Ethiopia. And Yemen is the source of three varieties that are the starting point for many of today's hybrids—naturally occurring or cultivated: Typica, Mocha, and Bourbon. These three very old varieties are less productive than newer hybrids. They are highly prized by coffee connoisseurs for their rich aromas. This is also reflected in the price of these green coffees.New varieties – whether naturally mutated or bred by humans – also have a long history. For example, a mutation in the Bourbon plant was observed in 1935 – named Caturra. This plant became the basis for many breeding programs aimed at high yields. While a Typica plant yields no more than 500 kilograms per hectare, Caturra can produce up to 1,500 kilograms. Nature and humanity are constantly striving to produce new varieties. Quality and yield represent the extremes of this pursuit. For a long time, humans focused on yield. However, these varieties have never been able to compete with the three oldest varieties in terms of taste.Generally speaking, Arabica varieties have a higher acidity and more subtle aromas. Robusta varieties tend to be known for their astringent, strong, smoky, and bitter-walnutty characteristics. The qualities of both are often combined in blends to create well-rounded, full-bodied flavor profiles. In plant breeding, there are also attempts to cross Arabica and Robusta varieties (image: Coffee Tree) with the aim of combining the sensory attributes of Arabica with the resilience of Robusta. Looking at both types of coffee at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the taste of the coffee in the cup.
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