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Our job is the SELECTION
Many enthusiasts who enjoy German literary classics have been surprised by the dense succession of timeless works published in such a short period of time.
THE PRICE IS HOT
The year 2024 has made many things visible. Climate change has been discussed intensively in recent years, and now we are seeing its effects more and more clearly: for example, in the prices of green coffee.
There is simply not enough green coffee of the appropriate quality in the right place. Extreme weather conditions have led to drought in South America and heavy rainfall with flooding in Southeast Asia. In other words, the agriculture of the world's two largest coffee producers, Brazil and Vietnam, was particularly hard hit by environmental disasters last year. Vietnam even experienced the smallest Robusta harvest in 13 years. The coffee price on the stock exchange for Arabica and Robusta is thus at its highest level since 1977.
In addition, newly announced bureaucratic regulations (deforestation regulations) and supply chain problems, which began with the 2020 coronavirus crisis and are only slowly improving due to the unstable geopolitical situation, are further driving up the market price. In November 2024, two million sacks of coffee were stored in Brazilian ports alone, out of schedule. The sum of all these factors is leading to a plateau, a new zero line. At the same time, energy prices in Europe will remain high in the medium term, which in turn impacts the entire value chain.
All in all, not very encouraging, but still doable and, above all, instructive. In the past, the coffee exchange wasn't particularly important for specialty coffee roasters. However, since the high base price for green coffee on the exchange is now also driving specialty coffee prices to historic highs, we no longer have to solely evaluate the quality of the coffee samples when purchasing, but also pay attention to the weather forecasts of the producing countries to determine the right time to enter into a purchase agreement. The comparatively high current base price for green coffee will, in the long run, increase producers' interest in growing and selling coffee instead of switching to other agricultural products.
At the end of the day, it's all about making decisions.
We have decided not to skimp on quality, but to purchase high-quality green coffee in a targeted and long-term manner so that we can continue to stand behind our coffee varieties with conviction.
Original article
"The price is HOT"
TOI'S ARE US: Our Christmas coffee this year - A Fine Robusta from Vietnam
Toi Nguyen is this year's producer of our Christmas coffee: a peaberry Robusta! (C. canphora var. Robusta 138 washed Peaberry). His farm is located in Bao Loc, Vietnam. – Vietnam?
Yes, exactly! The country we previously associated with cheap, low-quality green coffee for inexpensive espresso blends. But as always, when you've settled comfortably into your preconceived notions, things turn out differently.
This summer, several samples of Robusta green coffee from Mr. Toi's Future Coffee Farm arrived at our doorstep. Since discovering the Robusta variety from Finca Santa Isabel in Guatemala, we know that the time for high-quality Robustas ("Fine Robusta") has arrived. But the fact that this year's samples were from Vietnam made us a bit skeptical. After tasting them, however, our skepticism proved completely unfounded – this will be a wonderful brew for Christmas!
Mr. Toi is a passionate Robusta specialist and does this coffee species proud. He confirms what has been circulating in expert circles for some years: Robusta beans do not necessarily have inferior sensory quality. However, the C. canephora species (botanical name) was only cultivated in the mid-19th century, while varieties of the C. arabica species were cultivated several hundred years earlier. C. canephora is the genetically older of the two and is also a parent of the C. arabica species. Due to its later discovery and the strong focus on disease resistance and plant yield, quality was secondary from the beginning. This is also why the erroneous quality label "100% Arabica" arose. It provides about as much information as "100% white wine." Robusta beans have a different shape, density, and chemical composition.
Robusta beans have traditionally been treated with Arabica methods in agriculture, post-harvest processing, roasting, storage, and extraction. Additionally, Robusta has never fetched a high price, so production has been geared towards high volume. This vicious cycle has been broken in recent years. The careful and specific handling of this variety is revealing qualities we hadn't anticipated. As roasters, we've also had to learn a lot and question our own thinking. When preparing Robusta beans, they should be ground more finely than Arabica beans, likely due to their lower fat content.
Another crucial finding is that 100% Robusta varieties tend to reach their sensory peak two months after roasting (unlike Arabica beans, which reach their peak three to five weeks after roasting). All of this needs to be considered, and much more is yet to come. The sooner we rethink our approach, the easier it will be to continue enjoying coffee in the future. In Peru, they are now selectively replacing Arabica plants destroyed by extreme weather with Robusta plants. The pressure on coffee cultivation from climate change is immense; now it's time to make a virtue of necessity and tackle the solutions.
Mr. Toi – thank you for the pioneering work, these wonderful pearl beans and Merry Christmas!
MR. TOI'S PEARL BEANS ROBUSTA IS ESPECIALLY SUITABLE FOR PORTAFILTERS, MOKACOPERS AND FULLY AUTOMATIC MACHINERY.
AVAILABLE FROM 17.11.
Original article
"TOI's ARE US: Our Christmas coffee this year - A Fine Robusta from Vietnam"
220GRAD Chiemseegasse: A chapter comes to an end.
It all began in 2008. The book, titled 220GRAD. So much of it is aroma, feeling, and spirit… intangible. But part of it is made of brick, plaster, concrete, wood, and fabric.
Our cafés embody what we want to express with 220GRAD. They are the spaces we create around our coffee. They bring not only coffee and people together, but also people together. They have become powerful hubs for exchange, a second home, and inspiration.For us, but also for our employees and guests. This makes them crucial cornerstones of our company. They embody how we think and how we want to live.
They are therefore very personal places for us. We have spent many hours in them.We have decided on, maintained, and renewed every detail.
We associate Chiemseegasse in particular with our beginnings. It was here that we roasted our first beans, poured our first hearts into cappuccinos, and created our first breakfasts.We were ridiculed for being a non-smoking café, but our oldest regulars came in anyway and have been with us ever since. We've met and grown to love people, and shared in their lives. Children have grown up within these walls, relationships have ended, and important people have passed away. This place means so much to us and to many others because we and they have spent time together here. It's the place where our philosophy, our path as a company, and our path as a family have become increasingly clear. Here we laid the foundation that has given us the courage and confidence to take the next steps.
Over the past few years, a gradual process of letting go has begun. Chiemseegasse became a playground – an experimental field for our long-time employees. We increasingly entrusted it to the capable hands of young, energetic people who continued to run it with great dedication. At the end of this year, we will finally part ways with Chiemseegasse. New projects await us and require our energy. And the Chiemseegasse chapter is not yet over. Because we are clearing the way. Clearing the way for something that can grow anew on fertile ground.
We'll keep you updated!
Original article
"220° Chiemseegasse: A chapter comes to an end."
Who, how, what...?
Why, how, what... Those who do not ask remain in the dark. It often takes time to get to the bottom of things, and sometimes all you can do is approach dem gradually.
Lots of new things in 2022!
We opened the doors to our new 220GRAD Rupertinum about two weeks ago. With it, we also began a new coffee partnership: Rwanda.
The lionesses are coming!
220GRAD Rupertinum: In March we will open our doors accompanied by new machines.
220GRAD is increasing. And everyone is increasing with it.
From a wealth of potential, a company emerges that offers even more.
In relationship with Salzburg
"Everything is connected to me and Salzburg. But it can only be a love-hate relationship because I am a living, breathing human being. It's not possible any other way. Or I let myself be absorbed, dance along with it, and completely give myself up – building Salzburg out of papier-mâché and icing, and giving myself up. I don't want that."
(Thomas Bernhard)
Something that was asleep is awakened!
This time we are bringing an old sculpture hall in the heart of the city back to life .
Pearls don't lie on the shore. You have to dive for them.
Our Christmas coffee Perlbohne: dense and unique - just like the year 2021.
Solid, liquid, ephemeral. The world of coffee in flux.
Climate change is omnipresent. Never before have events directly attributable to it occurred so rapidly and so quickly. The coffee industry is also affected. In addition to increasingly frequent and severe storms and severe weather events, other weather phenomena play a crucial role for coffee farmers.
Drought is becoming an increasingly serious problem in coffee-growing regions around the equator. Regions with sufficient altitude can still shift to higher elevations (around 2200 m!), as is the case in Ethiopia, for example. For Brazil, with its topographically determined low growing altitudes averaging 1000-1300 m for C. arabica varieties, this is hardly possible. This year, a crop failure of 28.5% is expected. This phenomenon is not new, but this development should not be taken lightly. A 2015 study (Bunn et al., 2015. Climate Change 129, 89-101) estimated that Brazil's current harvest volume will decrease by 30 to 85% by 2050. This is an enormous figure considering that Brazil is the world's largest coffee exporter by volume. The Arabica plant, as we know it, is threatened. Some growing regions and varieties will likely disappear. It pains us to think how quickly ways of life and the cultures, knowledge, and history associated with them could be lost forever.
At the same time, coffee cultivation in China is increasing, and much hope is being placed in the C. canephora genus (Robusta). Robusta plants are known for their greater resistance to heat, temperature fluctuations, and pests. But only time will tell how this genus reacts to increasing drought stress. So, things are sure to change – for us and for the results in the cup. Who knows, perhaps new varieties, cultivation methods, roasting techniques, or even preparation methods will emerge that we can't even imagine right now.Pantha rhei! – Everything flows!
I FIND THE GREAT THING IN THIS WORLDIS, NOT SO MUCH WHERE WE STAND, ASIN WHAT DIRECTION WE ARE MOVING.
Sugar in your coffee? Adding it is frowned upon, but what sugar does coffee already contain?
In western Austria, mountains are generally only recognized as such above the tree line. This phenomenon is unknown around the equator and therefore also within the coffee belt. Here, it's quite possible to find coffee plantations at altitudes of 2200 meters.
The term "highland coffee" for C. arabica varieties is indeed fitting. The C. canephora genus, widely known as Robusta, is traditionally found at lower elevations, up to 800 meters. However, even this is no longer a universal rule; this genus has been "migrating" to higher altitudes in recent years. C. canephora plants can now be found at elevations as high as 1500 meters. Does all this have an impact? – Quite a few! – One example can be quickly explained. An Ethiopian-Belgian team of scientists (Worku et al., 2018) described several aspects in a very readable publication. In summary: the sucrose (sugar) content of the green bean correlates positively with the altitude at which it is grown.
This means that if the same coffee variety is grown at different altitudes, higher sucrose (and also glucose) content can generally be expected from the coffee beans grown at higher elevations. This phenomenon is currently attributed primarily to a combination of cooler temperatures, a slower ripening process, and simultaneously more intense sunlight. Sucrose undergoes numerous transformations and breakdowns during roasting. Many desirable flavor compounds are produced in the Maillard reaction and through caramelization – processes in which sucrose or its constituent sugars, fructose and glucose, are involved. And believe it or not, various acids are formed in the bean from sucrose and other sugars during roasting: formic acid, acetic acid, and lactic acid, to name the most important. These reach their maximum concentration at a certain point during roasting and are subsequently partially broken down.
Additionally, green coffee beans also contain significant amounts of citric and malic acid – like many seeds from other fruits. The natural "green" acidity increases further with altitude, especially when the coffee plants are shaded from direct sunlight by trees. This interesting blend of diverse aromas and acids contributes to the exceptionally complex and rich aroma and flavor profile of coffee extracts.
Fat is beautiful - The polarizing flavor carrier and its role in coffee
Arabica und Robusta Sorten unterscheiden sich in vielen Aspekten: unter anderem im Coffein Gehalt, dem Chlorogensäurengehalt und dem Fettgehalt.
How a small bean holds its own in the world
Coffee is a genus of plants in the Rubiaceae family. More than 100 species are known to date. The best-known of these are Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (commonly known as Robusta). These are also the two most important coffee genera on the world market.
Looking at both coffee varieties at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the flavor of the cup. Caffeine remains essentially stable during roasting—its levels hardly change. Arabica beans typically contain around 1% caffeine, while Robusta beans contain around 2%. In its pure form, caffeine tastes bitter and contributes between 10% and 30% to the bitterness of the final cup.
To date, 72 different chlorogenic acids have been identified in green coffee beans. Their main groups contribute significantly to the characteristics of roasted coffee during roasting: Arabica contains up to 10% and Robusta up to 14% chlorogenic acids. Roasting can transform chlorogenic acids into spicy to smoky aromas like guaiacol, as well as vanillin. Other breakdown products—especially in darker roasts—such as chlorogenic acid lactones or phenylindanes, often cause extreme bitterness for the coffee drinker. These processes are therefore more likely and frequent in Robusta varieties. Here, great care in cultivation and roasting is essential to ensure that the gustatory advantages of this variety outweigh its disadvantages.
Besides their sensory effects, chlorogenic acids also make important physiological contributions – as antioxidants in the body. Coffee is considered one of the main food sources of chlorogenic acids. Caffeine and chlorogenic acids are so-called "defense metabolites" in coffee plants. Caffeine acts as a neurotoxin, primarily against herbivores. Chlorogenic acids have an antioxidant effect against stress reactions in the plant or serve as building blocks for lignin, which is essential for lignification. This means they help the plant defend itself against herbivores, infections, and inflammation. The more coffee varieties are forced to assert themselves in evolution, the more of these substances have been incorporated into the DNA blueprint. The name "Robusta" derives from this ability to withstand adverse conditions. Due to these properties, Robusta is gaining increasing importance in the context of climate change. New developments offer hope that its qualities will improve, and that in addition to its robust nature, we will also find a compelling taste surprise in our cups.
The cherry doesn't fall far from the tree?
While we can quite expertly distinguish between Grüner Veltliner and Muskateller, between Merlot and Zweigelt when it comes to wine, we are usually still quite naive when it comes to coffee. Just like wine, the world of coffee offers us a great wealth of different varieties.
Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora (commonly known as Robusta) are the two most important coffee species on the world market. The varieties derived from them exhibit specific regional characteristics depending on their origin, geographical location, terrain, and processing, similar to the different grape varieties in winemaking. C. arabica and C. canephora share a common history. A historical paradox: C. canephora is the older species and a "parent" of the Arabica genus, even though it was discovered later. C. canephora has been used by humans since the mid-19th century. The history of the use of Arabica plants, on the other hand, begins between 500 and 1000 AD.Ethiopia and Yemen are home to the oldest Arabica varieties. Ethiopia is the cradle of Arabica. Many local varieties arose naturally over millennia in the Ethiopian rainforests (Wolisho, Kudumé, Dega, Yawan, to name just a few). Over time, people selected from this diversity of plants based on specific characteristics to create new varieties (Dilla, Geisha, etc.). Further new varieties arose naturally through the expansion of Arabica cultivation to other regions.
Yemen was the first country to which the Arabica coffee plant spread from Ethiopia. And Yemen is the source of three varieties that are the starting point for many of today's hybrids—naturally occurring or cultivated: Typica, Mocha, and Bourbon. These three very old varieties are less productive than newer hybrids. They are highly prized by coffee connoisseurs for their rich aromas, which is reflected in the price of these green coffees.
New varieties – whether naturally mutated or bred by humans – also have a long history. For example, a mutation in the Bourbon plant was observed in 1935 – named Caturra. This plant became the basis for many breeding programs aimed at high yields. While a Typica plant yields no more than 500 kilograms per hectare, Caturra can produce up to 1,500 kilograms.Nature and humanity are constantly striving to produce new varieties. Quality and yield represent the extremes of this pursuit. For a long time, humans focused on yield. However, these varieties have never been able to compete with the three oldest varieties in terms of taste.
Generally speaking, Arabica varieties have a higher acidity and more subtle aromas. Robusta varieties tend to be known for their tart, strong, smoky, and bitter-walnutty characteristics. The qualities of both are often combined in blends to create well-rounded, full-bodied flavor profiles. In plant breeding, there are also attempts to cross Arabica and Robusta varieties with the aim of combining the sensory attributes of Arabica with the resilience of Robusta.
Looking at both types of coffee at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the taste of the coffee in the cup.
Love is in the air. Coffee aromas are everywhere.
Freshly roasted... and the clock is already ticking!
Coffee is a perishable product. From the moment roasting is complete, the aging process of the coffee beans begins. Then the clock starts ticking. The beloved aromas in coffee largely develop during roasting from the building blocks of the green bean. The fact that we smell aromas from coffee means that these are volatile: they travel to our noses in gaseous form. Most of what we think we taste, we actually smell. These volatile aromas are therefore (unfortunately) only a temporary delight within the coffee beans.
In addition to the aromas, carbon dioxide (CO2) is produced during the roasting process. This originates from reactions between carbohydrates and amino acids. Carbon dioxide is particularly valued for its foaming effect – in the crema formation of espresso. Carbon dioxide plays an equally important role in the storage of coffee beans. It acts as a protective gas within the coffee packaging, displacing atmospheric oxygen. If a coffee package swells due to CO2, this is a good sign. Oxygen triggers aging processes in roasted beans and can even create so-called "off-flavors." These are aromas that produce undesirable odors. Therefore, if coffee beans are packaged quickly after roasting, the initially high CO2 content in the packaging, which diffuses out from the beans, provides the best possible protection for freshness. Like aromas, carbon dioxide also diffuses gradually out of the bean as a gas and therefore decreases over time. Darker roasted beans have a higher CO2 content than lighter roasts – this also affects crema formation and stability in espresso. Darker roasts also have a lower bean density and higher bean volume and are more porous. This means that carbon dioxide and aromas diffuse more quickly through the larger pores and channels in the bean, thus accelerating the aging process.
Whole coffee beans age more slowly than ground coffee. This is due to their surface area: grinding coffee beans "cuts" them into many small particles. This increased surface area is essential for coffee extraction. Storing ground coffee, however, leads to accelerated aging: the small particles release aromas and CO2 into the surrounding air more quickly, and atmospheric oxygen finds numerous binding sites to act upon.All the processes described so far are accelerated by elevated ambient temperatures, while diffusion and oxidation processes are slowed down by cooler temperatures. If you happen to have too much coffee in storage, you can freeze it: thaw it in a closed container for at least 12 hours before use (to protect it from moisture). The key factors affecting the aging of coffee beans are oxygen, warmth/heat, and their own surface area (the finer the grind, the larger the surface area). The optimal window for using coffee beans is 1 to 4 weeks after roasting for darker roasts; lighter roasts can be stored for a few weeks longer if stored properly.One final tip: Carbon dioxide is heavier than the surrounding air. If you scoop coffee beans from the package instead of emptying it, a large portion of the carbon dioxide remains inside. Quality assurance can be this convenient and smart!
Yemen was the first country to which the Arabica plant spread from Ethiopia. And Yemen is the source of three varieties that are the starting point for many of today's hybrids—naturally occurring or cultivated: Typica, Mocha, and Bourbon. These three very old varieties are less productive than newer hybrids. They are highly prized by coffee connoisseurs for their rich aromas. This is also reflected in the price of these green coffees.New varieties – whether naturally mutated or bred by humans – also have a long history. For example, a mutation in the Bourbon plant was observed in 1935 – named Caturra. This plant became the basis for many breeding programs aimed at high yields. While a Typica plant yields no more than 500 kilograms per hectare, Caturra can produce up to 1,500 kilograms.
Nature and humanity are constantly striving to produce new varieties. Quality and yield represent the extremes of this pursuit. For a long time, humans focused on yield. However, these varieties have never been able to compete with the three oldest varieties in terms of taste.Generally speaking, Arabica varieties have a higher acidity and more subtle aromas. Robusta varieties tend to be known for their astringent, strong, smoky, and bitter-walnutty characteristics. The qualities of both are often combined in blends to create well-rounded, full-bodied flavor profiles. In plant breeding, there are also attempts to cross Arabica and Robusta varieties (image: Coffee Tree) with the aim of combining the sensory attributes of Arabica with the resilience of Robusta. Looking at both types of coffee at a chemical level reveals distinct flavor profiles. Significant distinguishing features include caffeine and chlorogenic acid content, fat and free amino acid content, sucrose, and polysaccharide content. As "molecular building blocks," these groups of substances play a major role in the roasting process and thus in the taste of the coffee in the cup.